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Citizen's Guide
To Pesticides And Toxic Substances
Knowing Your Options
THEY'RE THERE. Whether you see them or not, you
know they're there--in your home, your
vegetable garden, your lawn, your fruit and
shade trees, your flowers, and on your pets.
They are pests--insects, weeds, fungi, rodents,
and others.
American households and their surrounding grounds
are frequent hosts to common structural pests
(termites, cockroaches, fleas, rodents), as
well as a wide array of pests that are usually
associated with agriculture. Because pests are all
around--sometimes creating a nuisance but sometimes causing severe
financial loss--consumers have turned increasingly to pesticides
to control them. Just as "pests" can be anything from
cockroaches in your kitchen to algae in your swimming pool,
pesticides include insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, rodenticides,
disinfectants, and plant growth regulators--anything
that kills or otherwise controls a pest of any
kind.
The first and most important step in pest control
is to identify the pest. Some pests, or signs of them, are unmistakable.
Others are not. For example, some plant "diseases"
are really indications of insufficient soil nutrients.
Three information sources are particularly helpful
in identifying pests and appropriate pest
control methods:
reference books (such as insect field guides or
gardening books), the County Extension
Service, and pesticide dealers.
The next step is to decide what level of treatment
you want. Is anyone in the family or
neighborhood particularly sensitive to
chemical pesticides? Does your lawn really need to be
totally weed-free? Do you need every fruit, vegetable, or flower
you grow, or could you replace certain pest-prone species or varieties
with hardier substitutes? Will you accept some blemished produce? In
other words, do you need to eliminate all
weeds and insects, or can you tolerate some pests?
Remember that total pest elimination is virtually
impossible, and trying to eradicate pests from your
premises will lead you to more extensive,
repeated chemical treatments than are required
for pest control. Remember, too, that to manage
any pest effectively, you must use each method (or combination
of methods) correctly. Finally, you must also abide by all pertinent
local, state, and federal regulations.
Federal Registration of Pesticides
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)
"registers" (licenses) thousands of
pesticide products for use in and around
homes. No pesticide may legally be sold or used in the United
States unless its label bears an EPA registration number. The Federal
Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIRA),
which governs the registration of pesticides, prohibits the
use of any pesticide product in a manner that is inconsistent
with the product labeling.
Prevention
There is another important question to ask in
making pest control decisions: is there
something on your premises that needlessly
invites pest infestations? The answer to this question
may lead you to take some common-sense steps to modify pest
habitat.
* Remove water sources. All pests, vertebrate or
invertebrate, need water for survival. Fix leaky
plumbing and do not let water accumulate
anywhere in your home.
This means no water in trays under your
houseplants overnight if you have a cockroach
infestation.
* Remove food sources (if the pest's food is
anything other than the plant or animal you
are trying to protect). For example, this
could mean storing your food in sealed glass or
plastic containers, avoiding the habit of leaving your pet's
food out for extended periods of time, and placing your
refuse in tightly covered, heavy-gauge garbage cans.
* Remove or destroy pest shelter. Caulk cracks and
crevices to control cockroaches; remove piles
of wood from under or around your home in
order to avoid attracting termites;
* Remove and destroy diseased plants, tree
prunings, and fallen fruit that might harbor
pests.
* Remove breeding sites. The presence of pet
manure attracts flies, litter encourages
rodents, and standing water provides a perfect
breeding place for mosquitoes.
* Remove sources of preventable stress to plants
(flowers, trees, vegetable plants, and turf).
Plant at the optimum time of year. Use mulch
to reduce weed competition and maintain even
soil temperature and moisture. Provide adequate
water.
* Use preventive cultural practices, such as
careful selection of disease-resistant seed or
plant varieties, companion planting to exploit
the insect-repellent properties of certain
plants, strategic use of "trap" crops
to lure pests away from crops you wish to protect, crop
rotation and diversification, and optimum use of spacing.
Make sure you have good drainage and soil aeration.
Non-chemical Controls
If you practice preventive techniques such as
those mentioned above, you will reduce your
chances, or frequency, of pest infestation.
However, if you already have an infestation, are
there any pest control alternatives besides chemical pesticides?
The answer is an emphatic "yes." One or
a combination of several non-chemical
treatment alternatives may be appropriate.
Your best strategy depends on the pest and the
site where the pest occurs.
Non-chemical alternatives include:
* Biological treatments, including predators such
as purple martins, praying mantises, and lady
bugs; parasites; and pathogens such as
bacteria, viruses (generally not available to
homeowners), and other microorganisms like Bacillus
thuringiensis and milky spore disease.
There is no way to be certain how long predators
will stay in target areas. Contact your County
Extension Service for information about how to
protect desirable predators.
* Mechanical treatments, including cultivating to
control weeds, hand-picking weeds from turf
and pests from plants, trapping to control
rodents and some insects, and screening living
space to limit mosquito and fly access.
Non-chemical pest control methods really work.
They do have some disadvantages: the results
are not immediate, and it requires some work
to make a home or garden less attractive to
pests. But the advantages of non-chemical methods
are many. Compared to chemical pesticide treatments,
such methods are generally effective for longer
periods of time. They do not create hardy, pesticide-resistant
pest populations. And they can be used without
safeguards, because they pose virtually no hazards to
human health or the environment.
Chemical Controls
If you decide that chemical treatment can provide
the best solution to your pest problem, and
you want to control the pests yourself rather
than turning the problem over to a professional
pest control operator, then you have an important decision
to make: which product to choose. Before making that decision,
learn as much as you can about a product's active ingredient--its
biologically active agent. Is it "broad-spectrum" in its mode
of action (effective against a broad range of
pests), or is it "selective" (effective against only
a few pest species)? How rapidly does the active ingredient
break down once it is introduced into the environment?
Is it suspected of causing chronic health effects?
Is it toxic to non-target wildlife and house pets?
Is it known, or suspected, to leach through
soil into ground water?
Here again, your County Extension Service,
reference books, pesticide dealers, your state
pesticide agency, or your regional EPA office may be able to provide
assistance. (Lists of State and EPA pesticide
contacts are provided at the end of this
booklet.)
When you have narrowed your choices of active
ingredients, you are ready to select a
pesticide product. Choose the least toxic
pesticide that can achieve the results you desire. Read the
label. It lists active ingredients, the target pests (for example,
mites, flies, Japanese beetle grubs, broad-leafed weeds,
algae, etc.), and the sites where the product may be used
(for example, lawns, specific vegetable crops, roses, swimming
pools, etc.). Be sure the site of your pest problem is included
among the sites listed on the label.
Pesticide active ingredients are formulated in
many ways.
Choose the formulation best suited to your site
and the pest you are trying to control. The
most common types of home-use pesticide formulations include:
* Solutions, which contain the active ingredient
and one or more additives, and readily mix
with water.
* Aerosols, which contain one or more active
ingredients and a solvent. They are ready for
immediate use as is.
* Dusts, which contain active ingredients plus a
very fine dry inert carrier such as clay,
talc, or volcanic ash. Dusts are ready for
immediate use and are applied dry.
* Granulars, which are similar to dusts, but with
larger and heavier particles for broadcast
applications.
* Baits, which are active ingredients mixed with
food or other substances to attract the pest.
* Wettable powders, which are dry, finely ground
formulations that generally are mixed with water for
spray application. Some also may be used as
dusts.
Depending on the type of formulation you choose,
you may need to dilute or mix the product. Prepare only the amount that
you need for each application; don't prepare larger amounts to store for
possible future use. (See "Determining Correct Dosage.")
Once you have identified the pest, selected the
right pesticide, and determined proper dosage,
you are ready to use the product. Application technique and timing are
every bit as important as the material used,
so read the label for directions. That
advice--to read the label--is repeated so often
in this guide that it may become tiresome. But in fact, the advice
cannot be repeated often enough. Read the label before you buy a
product, and again before you mix it, before you
apply it, before you store it, and before you throw it away. The
directions on a label are there for a very good reason:
to help you achieve maximum benefits with minimum risk.
But these benefits depend upon proper use of the
products.
Chemical pesticides also have their disadvantages.
They must be used very carefully to achieve
results while protecting users and the
environment. The results are generally temporary, and
repeated treatments may be required.
Therefore, to achieve best results when you do use
chemical pesticides, use preventive and non-chemical
treatments along with them. This will reduce
the need for repeated applications.
You should always evaluate your pesticide use,
comparing pre-treatment and post-treatment conditions. You should weigh
the benefits of short-term chemical pesticide control
against the benefits of long-term control using a variety of techniques.
Knowledge of a range of pest control techniques gives
you the ability to pick and choose among them. Pests, unfortunately,
will always be around us, and, if you know about all
pest control options, you will know what to do the next time THEY'RE
THERE.
Tips for Handling Pesticides
Pesticides are not "safe." They are
produced specifically because they are toxic to something. By heeding
all the following tips, you can reduce your risks when you use
pesticides.
* All pesticides legally marketed in the United
States must bear an EPA-approved label; check
the label to make sure it bears an EPA
registration number.
* Before using a pesticide, read the entire label.
Even if you have used the pesticide before, read the label again--don't
trust your memory. Use of any pesticide in any way that is not
consistent with label directions and precautions is subject to civil
and/or criminal penalties.
* Do not use a "restricted use"
pesticide unless you are a formally trained, certified pesticide
applicator. These products are too dangerous
to be used without special training.
* Follow use directions carefully. Use only the
amount directed, at the time and under the conditions specified, and
for the purpose listed. Don't think that twice the dosage will do twice
the job. It won't. What's worse, you may harm
yourself, others, or whatever you are trying to protect.
* Look for one of the following signal words on
the front of the label. It will tell you how hazardous a pesticide is if
swallowed, inhaled, or absorbed through skin. "DANGER"
means highly poisonous; "WARNING"
means moderately hazardous; "CAUTION"
means least hazardous.
* Wear the items of protective clothing the label
requires: for example, long sleeves and long
pants, impervious gloves, rubber (not canvas or leather) footwear, hat,
and goggles. Personal protective clothing usually is available at home
building supply stores.
* If you must mix or dilute the pesticide, do so
outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Mix
only the amount you need and use portions
listed on the label.
* Keep children and pets away from areas where you
mix or apply pesticides.
* If a spill occurs, clean it up promptly. Don't
wash it away. Instead, sprinkle with sawdust, vermiculite, or kitty
litter; sweep into a plastic garbage bag; and dispose
with the rest of your trash.
* Remove pets (including birds and fish) and toys
from the area to be treated. Remove food, dishes, pots, and pans before
treating kitchen cabinets, and don't let pesticides get
on these surfaces. Wait until shelves dry before refilling them.
* Allow adequate ventilation when applying
pesticides indoors. Go away from treated areas
for at least the length of time prescribed by
the label. When spraying outdoors, close the
windows of your home.
* Most surface sprays should be applied only to
limited areas; don't treat entire floors,
walls, or ceilings.
* Never place rodent or insect baits where small
children or pets can reach them.
* When applying spray or dust outdoors, cover fish
ponds, and avoid applying pesticides near
wells. Always avoid over-application when
treating lawn, shrubs, or gardens. Runoff or seepage from excess
pesticide usage may contaminate water supplies. Excess spray may leave
harmful residues on home-grown produce.
* Keep herbicides away from non-target plants.
Avoid applying any pesticide to blooming plants, especially if you
see honeybees or other pollinating insects around them.
Avoid birds' nests when spraying trees.
* Never spray or dust outdoors on a windy day.
* Never smoke while applying pesticides. You could
easily carry traces of the pesticide from hand
to mouth. Also, some products are flammable.
* Never transfer pesticides to containers not
intended for them, such as empty soft drink
bottles. Keep pesticides in containers that
clearly and prominently identify the contents. Properly refasten all
childproof caps.
* Shower and shampoo thoroughly after using a
pesticide product. Wash the clothing that you wore when applying the
product separately from the family laundry. To
prevent tracking chemicals inside, also rinse boots and shoes before
entering your home.
* Before using a pesticide product, know what to
do in case of accidental poisoning.
* To remove residues, use a bucket to triple rinse
tools or equipment, including any containers
or utensils used to mix the chemicals. Then pour the rinse water into
the pesticide container and reuse the solution
by applying it according to the pesticide
product label directions.
* Evaluate the results of your pesticide use.
Determining Correct Dosage
So much information is packed onto pesticide
labels that there is usually no room to
include examples of each dilution applicable
to the multitude of home-use situations. As a result, label examples may
inadvertently encourage preparation of more pesticide than is needed.
The excess may contribute to overuse, safety problems related to storage
and disposal, or simply wasted costs of unused pesticide.
Determining the correct dosage for different types
of pesticides requires some simple calculations. The following
information can help you to prepare the minimum quantity of pesticide
needed for your immediate use situation.
For example, the product label says, "For the
control of aphids on tomatoes, mix 8 fluid
ounces of pesticide into 1 gallon water and
spray until foliage is wet." Your experience has
been that your six tomato plants require only one quart of pesticide
to wet all the foliage. Therefore, only 2 fluid ounces of the pesticide
should be mixed into 1 quart of water.
Why? Because a quart is one-fourth of a gallon,
and 2 fluid ounces mixed into 1 quart make the
same strength spray recommended by the label, but in a quantity that can
be used up all at once.
Consumers can solve problems similar to this one
with careful arithmetic, good measurements,
and intelligent use of the information provided here.
How to Measure
If you need to determine the size of a square or
rectangular area, such as a lawn for herbicide
application, measure and multiply the length
and width. For example, an area 10 feet long
by 8 feet wide contains 80 square feet. Common area
measurements may involve square yards (1 square yard = 9 square
feet) or square feet (1 square foot = 144 square inches).
If you need to determine the volume of a space
such as a room, measure and multiply the
room's length, width, and height. For example,
a space 10 feet long, 8 feet wide, and 8 feet
high contains a volume of 640 cubic feet. You would use this
procedure, for instance, for an aerosol release to control cockroaches.
Most residential-use pesticides are measured in
terms of volume. Some common equivalents are:
1 gallon (gal.) = 128 fluid ounces (ft. oz.)
= 4 quarts (qt.) = 8 pints
(pt.) = 16 cups
1 qt. = 32 ft. oz. = 2
pt. = 4 cups
1 pt. = 16 ft. oz. = 2
cups
1 cup = 8 ft. oz.
1 tablespoon = 1/2 fl. oz.= 3 teaspoons
1 teaspoon = 1/8 ft. oz.
In measuring teaspoons or tablespoons of
pesticide, use only level spoonfuls, and never
use the same measuring devices for food
preparation.
The following table provides examples to help you
convert label information to your specific use
situations. "Amount" can be any
measure of pesticide quantity. However, the same unit of measure
must be used on both sides of the chart. For example, 8 fluid
ounces per gallon of water is equivalent to 2 fluid ounces
per quart of water.
Not all dosage rates are included in the examples
given here. For rates not included, remember
that, for pesticides not diluted with water,
proportionally change both the quantity of pesticide and the area,
volume, or number of items treated. For example,
one-half pound per 1,000 square feet is equivalent to one-quarter
pound per 500 square feet. For a pesticide that is diluted with water,
proportionally change the quantity of pesticide,
the quantity of water, and the area, volume, or number
of items treated. For example, one-half pound of pesticide
in 1 gallon of water applied to 1,000 square feet is equivalent
to 1 pound of pesticide in 2 gallons of water applied
to 2,000 square feet.
There is a point at which measurements needed for
smaller quantities of pesticides are too
minute to be accurately measured with typical
domestic measuring devices. In such cases, the
user can either mix the larger volume, realizing that
there will be leftover material; obtain a more accurate measuring
device, such as a graduated cylinder or a scale which measures
small weights; or search for an alternative pesticide or
less concentrated formulation of the same pesticide.
Correct Storage and Disposal
The following tips on home storage and disposal
can help you handle pesticides correctly.
Storage
* Buy only enough product to carry you through the
use season, to reduce storage problems.
* Store pesticides away from children and pets. A
locked cabinet in a well-ventilated utility
area or garden shed is best.
* Store flammable liquids outside living quarters
and away from an ignition source.
* Never put pesticides in cabinets with, or near,
food, medical supplies, or cleaning materials.
Always store pesticides in their original containers, complete with
labels that list ingredients, directions for use, and
antidotes in case of accidental poisoning. Never
transfer pesticides to soft drink bottles or other containers that
children may associate with something to eat or
drink. Always properly refasten child-proof
closures or lids.
* Avoid storing pesticides in places where
flooding is possible, or in open places where
they might spill or leak into the environment.
If you have any doubt about the content of a container, dispose of it
with your trash.
Disposal
* The best way to dispose of a small, excess
amount of pesticide is to use it--apply
it--according to directions on the product label. If you cannot use it,
ask your neighbor whether he/she can use it.
If all the pesticide cannot be used, first
check with your local health department or
solid waste management agency to determine whether
your community has a household hazardous waste collection
program or any other program for handling disposal
of pesticides.
* If no community programs exist, follow label
directions regarding container disposal. To
dispose of less than a full container of a liquid pesticide, leave it in
the original container, with the cap securely
in place to prevent spills or leaks. Wrap the
container in several layers of newspapers and
tie securely. Then place the package in a
covered trash can for routine collection with municipal refuse. If you
do not have a regular trash collection
service, take the package to a permitted landfill
(unless your municipality has other requirements).
Note: No more than one gallon of liquid pesticide
should be disposed of in this manner.
* Wrap individual packages of dry pesticide
formulations in several layers of newspaper,
or place the package in a tight carton or bag,
and tape or tie it closed. As with liquid
formulations, place the package in a covered trash can
for routine collection.
Note: No more than 5 pounds of pesticide at a time
should be disposed of in this manner.
* Do not pour leftover pesticides down the sink or
into the toilet. Chemicals in pesticides could
interfere with the operation of wastewater
treatment systems or could pollute waterways,
because many municipal systems cannot remove all
pesticide residues.
* An empty pesticide container can be as hazardous
as a full one because of residues remaining inside. Never reuse such a
container. When empty, a pesticide container should be carefully rinsed
and thoroughly drained. Liquids used to rinse the container should be
added to the sprayer or to the container previously used to mix the
pesticide and used according to label directions. Empty product
containers made of plastic or metal should be
punctured to prevent reuse. (Do not puncture or burn a pressurized
product container--it could explode.) Glass containers should be rinsed
and drained, as described above, and the cap or closure replaced
securely. After rinsing, an empty mixing
container or sprayer may also be wrapped and placed in the trash.
* If you have any doubts about proper pesticide
disposal, contact your state or local health department, your solid
waste management agency, or the regional EPA office.
How to Choose a Pest Control Company
Termites are chomping away at your house. Roaches
are taking over your kitchen. Mouse droppings dot your dresser drawer.
You've got a pest control problem, and you've decided that
it's too serious for you to solve on your own. You've decided you need a
professional exterminator.
If you find yourself in a situation like this,
what can you do to be sure that the pest
control company you hire will do a good job?
Here are some questions you can ask:
1. Does the company have a good track record?
Don't rely on the company salesman to answer this
question; research the answer yourself. Ask around among neighbors
and friends; have any of them dealt with the company before?
Were they satisfied with the service they received? Call the Better
Business Bureau or local consumer office; have they
received any complaints about the company?
2. Does the company have insurance? What kind of
insurance? Can the salesman show some
documentation to prove that the company is
insured? Contractor's general liability
insurance, including insurance for sudden and accidental pollution,
gives you as a homeowner a certain degree of protection should an
accident occur while pesticides are being applied in your home.
Contractor's workmen's compensation insurance can also help protect
you should an employee of the contractor be injured while
working in your home.
In most states, pest control companies are not
required to buy insurance, but you should
think twice before dealing with a company that is uninsured.
3. Is the company licensed?
Regulatory agencies in some states issue state
pest control licenses. Although the
qualifications for a license vary from state
to state, at a minimum the license requires that
each company have a certified pesticide applicator present in
the office on a daily basis to supervise the work of exterminators using
restricted-use pesticides. (Certified applicators
are formally trained and "certified" as qualified to
use or supervise the use of pesticides that are classified for
restricted use.) If restricted-use pesticides are to be applied
on your premises, make sure the pest control operator's license
is current. Also ask if the company's employees are bonded.
You may want to contact your state lead pesticide
agency to ask about its pesticide certification and training programs
and to inquire if periodic re-certification is
required for pest control operators.
In addition to the licenses required in some
states, some cities also issue pest control
licenses. Again, qualifications vary, but
possession of a city license--where they are available--is
one more assurance that the company you are dealing
with is reputable and responsible.
4. Is the company affiliated with a professional
pest control association?
Professional associations--whether national,
state, or local--keep members informed of new
developments in pest control methods, safety, training, research, and
regulation.
They also have codes of ethics that members agree
to abide by.
The fact that a company, small or large, chooses
to affiliate itself with a professional
association signals its concern for the quality of its work.
5. Does the company stand behind its work? What
assurances does the company make?
You should think twice about dealing with a
company unwilling to stand behind its work. Be
sure to find out what you must do to keep your
part of the bargain. For example, in the case
of termite control treatments, a guarantee may be invalidated
if structural alterations are made without prior notice
to the pest control company.
6. Is the company willing, and able, to discuss
the treatment proposed for your home?
Selecting a pest control service is just as
important as selecting other professional
services. Look for the same high degree of
competence you would expect from a doctor or lawyer.
The company should inspect your premises and
outline a recommended control program,
including what pests are to be controlled; the extent of the
infestation; what pesticide formulation will be used in your home and
why; what techniques will be used in application; what alternatives to
the formulation and techniques could be used instead; what special
instructions you should follow to reduce your
exposure to the pesticide (such as vacating
the house, emptying the cupboards, removing
pets, etc.); and what you can do to minimize your pest problems in the
future.
Contracts should be jointly developed. Any safety
concerns should be noted and reflected in the
choice of pesticides to be used. These concerns could include allergies,
age of occupants (infants or elderly), or
pets. You may want to get two to three, bids
from different companies--by value, not price. What appears
to be a bargain may merit a second look.
Even after you have hired a company, you should
continue your vigilance. Evaluate results. If
you have reason to believe that something has
gone wrong with the pesticide application, contact the company and/or
your state lead pesticide agency. Don't let
your guard down, and don't stop asking questions.
How to Reduce Your Exposure to Pesticides
Because chemical pesticides are so widely used in
our society, and because of the properties of many of the chemicals,
low levels of pesticide residues are found throughout the environment.
Pesticides reach us in a variety of ways--through
food, water, and air.
In regulating pesticides, EPA strives to ensure
that lawful use of these products will not
result in harmful exposures. Proper use of registered products should
yield residue levels that are well within established safety standards.
Therefore, the average American's exposure to low-level residues, though
fairly constant, should not cause alarm.
Still, many people want to learn what choices they
can make to further reduce their exposure to any potential risks associated
with pesticides. By limiting your exposure to these products,
you can keep your risks to a minimum.
Below you will find descriptions of the main
pathways of human exposure to pesticides, as
well as suggestions on ways to reduce overall
exposure and attendant risks. If, however, you suspect
that you suffer from serious chemical sensitivities, consult
an expert to develop a more personally tailored approach
to managing this problem.
Exposure Through Food
Commercial Food
Throughout life--beginning even before birth--we
are all exposed to pesticides. A major source of exposure is through our
diets. We constantly consume small amounts of pesticides.
Fruits and vegetables, as well as meat, poultry,
eggs, and milk, are all likely to contain
measurable pesticide residues. EPA sets
standards, called tolerances, to limit the amount of
pesticide residues that legally may remain in or on food or animal
feed marketed in U.S. commerce. Both domestic and imported
foods are monitored by the Food and Drug Administration
(FDA) and the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA)
to ensure compliance with these tolerances. Further, since pesticide
residues generally tend to degrade over time and
through processing, residue concentrations in or on most foods
are well below legal tolerance levels by the time the foods
are purchased.
Although EPA does limit dietary pesticide exposure
through tolerances, you may wish to take extra precautions. You can
take several steps to reduce your exposure to
residues in purchased food.
* Rinse fruit and vegetables thoroughly with
water; scrub them with a brush and peel them, if possible. Although
this surface cleaning will not remove
"systemic" pesticide residues taken up into the growing fruit
or vegetable, it will remove most of the
existing surface residues, not to mention any dirt.
* Cook or bake foods to reduce residues of some
(but not all) pesticides.
* Trim the fat from meat and poultry. Discard the
fats and oils in broths and pan drippings,
since residues of some pesticides concentrate
in fat.
Home-grown Food
Growing some of your own food can be both a
pleasurable activity and a way to reduce your
exposure to pesticide residues in food. But, even here, there are some
things you may want to do to assure that exposure is limited.
* Before converting land in an urban or suburban
area to gardening, find out how the land was
used previously. Choose a site that had
limited (or no) chemical applications and where drift or runoff from
your neighbor's activities will not result in
unintended pesticide residues on your produce. Choose a garden site
strategically to avoid these potential routes of entry, if possible.
If you are taking over an existing garden plot, be
aware that the soil may contain pesticide residues from previous
gardening activities. These residues may remain in the soil for several
years, depending on the persistence of the
pesticides that were used. Rather than waiting for the residues
to decline naturally over time, you may speed the process.
* Plant an interim, non-food, crop like annual rye
grass, clover, or alfalfa. Such crops, with
their dense, fibrous root systems, will take up some of the lingering
pesticide residues. Then discard the crops--don't work them back into
the soil--and continue to alternate food crops with cover crops in the
off season.
* During sunny periods, turn over the soil as
often as every two to three days for a week or
two. The sunlight will help to break down, or
photodegrade, some of the pesticide residues.
Once you do begin gardening, develop strategies
that will reduce your need for pesticides while maintaining good crop
yields.
* Concentrate on building your garden's soil,
since healthy soil grows healthy plants. Feed
the soil with compost, manure, etc., to increase its capacity to support
strong crops.
* Select seeds and seedlings from hardy,
disease-resistant varieties. The resulting
plants are less likely to need pesticides in order to flourish.
* Avoid monoculture gardening techniques. Instead,
alternate rows of different kinds of plants to prevent significant pest
problems from developing.
* Don't plant the same crop in the same spot year
after year if you want to reduce plant
susceptibility to over-wintered pests.
* Become familiar with integrated pest management
(IPM) techniques, so that you can manage any
pest outbreaks that do occur without relying
solely on pesticides.
* Mulch your garden with leaves, hay, grass
clippings, shredded/chipped bark, or seaweed. Avoid using newspapers
to keep down weeds, and sewage sludge to fertilize
plants. Newsprint may contain heavy metals;
sludge may contain heavy metals and pesticides, both of which can leach
into your soil.
Food from the Wild
While it might seem that hunting your own game,
catching your own fish, or gathering wild
plant foods would reduce your overall exposure to pesticides, this isn't
necessarily so. Wild foods hunted, caught, or
gathered in areas where pesticides are frequently
used outdoors may contain pesticide residues.
Migratory species also may contain pesticide
residues if these chemicals are used anywhere in their flyways.
Tolerances generally are not established or
enforced for pesticides found in wild game,
fowl, fish, or plants. Thus, if you consume food from the wild, you may
want to take the following steps to reduce your exposure to pesticide
residues.
* Because wild game is very lean, there is less
fat in which pesticides can accumulate.
However, avoid hunting in areas where
pesticide usage is very high.
* Avoid fishing in water bodies where water
contamination is known to have occurred. Pay
attention to posted signs warning of contamination.
* You may want to consult with fish and game
officials where you plan to hunt or fish to
determine whether there are any pesticide
problems associated with that area.
* When picking wild plant foods, avoid gathering
right next to a road, utility right-of-way, or
hedgerow between farm fields which probably
have been treated (directly or indirectly)
with pesticides. Instead, seek out fields that have not been used to
produce crops, deep woods, or other areas
where pesticide use is unlikely.
* When preparing wild foods, trim fat from meat,
and discard skin of fish to remove as many
fat-soluble pesticide residues as possible. For wild plant foods, follow
the tips provided for commercial food.
Exposure Through Water
Whether it comes from surface or ground water
sources, the water flowing from your tap may contain low levels of
pesticides.
When pesticides are applied to land, a certain
amount may run off the land into streams and
rivers. This runoff, coupled with industrial
discharges, can result in low-level contamination of surface water. In
certain hydrogeologic settings--for example,
sandy soil over a ground water source that is
near the surface--pesticides can leach down through the soil
to the ground water.
EPA's Water Program sets standards and provides
advisory levels for pesticides and other
chemicals that may be found in drinking water.
Public municipal water systems test their water periodically and provide
treatment or alternate supply sources if residue problems arise. Private
wells generally are not tested unless the well owner requests such
analysis.
If you get your drinking water from a private
well, you can reduce the chance of contaminating your water supply by
following these guidelines:
* Be cautious about using pesticides and other
chemicals on your property, especially if the
well is shallow or is not tightly constructed. Check with your EPA
regional office or County Extension Service
before using a pesticide outdoors, to
determine whether it is known or suspected to leach to ground water.
Never use or mix a pesticide near your well
head.
* To avoid pesticide contamination problems, be
sure your well extends downward to aquifers
that are below, and isolated from, surface
aquifers, and be sure the well shaft is
tightly sealed. If you have questions about pesticide
or other chemical residues in your well water, contact
your state or county health department.
* If your well water is analyzed and found to
contain pesticide residue levels above established or recommended
health standards, you may wish to use an alternate
water source such as bottled water for
drinking and cooking. The best choice is distilled spring water in glass
bottles.
Ask your local bottler for the results of a recent
pesticide analysis.
Exposure Through Air
Outdoors, air currents may carry pesticides that
were applied on adjacent property or miles
away. But there are steps you can take to
reduce your exposure to airborne pesticide residue,
or drift, outdoors. To reduce your exposure to airborne
pesticides:
* Avoid applying pesticides in windy weather (when
winds exceed 10 miles per hour).
* Use coarse droplet nozzles to reduce misting.
* Apply the spray as close to the target as
possible.
* Keep the wind to your side so that sprays and
dusts do not blow into your face.
* If someone else is applying pesticides outdoors
near your home, stay indoors with your pets
and children, keeping doors and windows
closed. If it is very windy during the pesticide
application, stay inside for an hour or two.
* If pesticides are applied frequently near your
home (if you live next to fields receiving
regular pesticide treatment), consider
planting a buffer zone of thick-branched trees
and shrubs upwind to help serve as a buffer
zone and windbreak.
* Many local governments require public
notification in advance of area-wide or
broad-scale pesticide spray activities and
programs--through announcements in newspapers,
letters to area residents, or posting of signs in
areas to be treated. Some communities have also enacted "right to
know" ordinances which require public notification,
usually through posting, of lawn treatments and other small-scale
outdoor pesticide uses. If your local
government does not require notifications, either for
large- or small-scale applications, you may want to work
with local officials to develop such requirements.
Indoors, the air you breathe may bear pesticide
residues long after a pesticide has been
applied to objects in your home or office, or to indoor surfaces and
crawl spaces.
Pesticides dissipate more slowly indoors than
outdoors. In addition, energy efficiency
features built into many homes reduce air
exchange, aggravating the problem. To limit your
exposure to indoor pesticide residues:
* Use pesticides indoors only when absolutely
necessary, and then use only limited amounts.
Provide adequate ventilation during and after
application. If you hire a pest control
company, oversee its activities carefully.
* If pesticides are used inside your home, air out
the house often, since outdoor air generally
is fresher and purer than indoor air. Open
doors and windows, and run overhead or
whole-house fans to exchange indoor air for outside air rapidly
and completely.
* If pesticides have been used extensively and an
indoor air contamination problem has
developed, clean--scrub--all surfaces where
pesticides may have settled, including cracks
and crevices. Consult a knowledgeable professional for
advice on appropriate cleaning materials if soap and water are
insufficient.
Exposure Through Home Usage
Over a lifetime, diet is the most significant
source of pesticide exposure for the general
public. However, on a short-term basis, the most significant exposure
source is personal pesticide use.
An array of pesticide products, ranging widely in
toxicity and potential effects, is available
"off the shelf" to the private user. No special training is
required to purchase or use these products,
and no one is looking over the users' shoulder,
monitoring their vigilance in reading and following label
instructions. Yet many of these products are hazardous, especially if
they are stored, handled, or applied improperly.
To minimize the hazards and maximize the benefits
that pesticides bring, exercise caution and
respect when using any pesticide product.
* Consider pesticide labeling to be what it is
intended to be: your best guide to using
pesticides safely and effectively.
* Pretend that the pesticide product you are using
is more toxic than you think it is. Take special precautions to ensure
an extra margin of protection for yourself, your family,
and pets.
* Don't use more pesticide than the label says.
You may not achieve a higher degree of pest
control, and you will certainly experience a higher degree of risk.
* If you hire a pest control firm to do the job,
ask the company to use the least toxic or any
chemical-free pest control means available
that will do the job. For example, some home
pest control companies offer an electro-gun technique
to control termite and similar infestations by penetrating
infested areas and "frying" the problem pests without
using any chemicals.
* And remember: sometimes a non-pesticidal
approach is as convenient and effective as its
chemical alternatives.
Consider using such non-pesticidal approaches
whenever possible.
"Someone's Been Poisoned. Help!"
What To Do in a Pesticide Emergency
The potential for a pesticide to cause injury
depends upon several factors:
* Toxicity of the active ingredient. Toxicity is a
measure of the inherent ability of a chemical
to produce injury.
Some pesticides, such as pyrethrins, have low
human toxicity while others, such as sodium
fluoroacetate, are extremely toxic.
* Dose. The greater the dose of a specific
pesticide, i.e. the amount absorbed, the
greater the risk of injury. Dose is dependent
upon the absolute amount of the pesticide absorbed
relative to the weight of the person. Therefore, small
amounts of a pesticide might produce illness in a small
child while the same dose of the same pesticide in an
adult might be relatively harmless.
* Route of absorption. Swallowing a pesticide
usually creates the most serious problem. In
practice, however, the most common route of
absorption of pesticides is through the skin
and the most toxic pesticides have resulted in
death through this route of exposure.
* Duration of exposure. The longer a person is
exposed to pesticides, the higher the level in
the body. There is a point at which an equilibrium will develop between
the intake and the output. Then, the level will no longer continue
to increase. However, this point may be either above
or below the known toxic level.
* Physical and chemical properties. The
distribution and the rates of breakdown of
pesticides in the environment significantly
alter the likelihood that injury might occur.
* Population at risk. Persons who run the greatest
danger of poisoning are those whose exposure
is highest, such as workers who mix, load, or
apply pesticides. However, the general public
also faces the possibility of exposure.
Recognizing Pesticide Poisoning
Like other chemicals, pesticides may produce
injury externally or internally.
External irritants may cause contact-associated
skin disease primarily of an irritant
nature--producing redness, itching, or
pimples--or an allergic skin reaction, producing redness,
swelling, or blistering. The mucous membranes of the eyes,
nose, mouth, and throat are also quite sensitive to chemicals.
Stinging and swelling can occur.
Internal injuries from any chemical may occur
depending upon where a chemical is transported
in the body. Thus, symptoms are dependent upon
the organ involved. Shortness of breath, clear
saliva, or rapid breathing may occur as the result
of lung injury. Nausea, vomiting, abdominal cramps, or diarrhea
may result from direct injury to the gastrointestinal tract.
Excessive fatigue, sleepiness, headache, muscle twitching,
and loss of sensation may result from injury to the nervous
system. In general, different classes of pesticides produce
different sets of symptoms.
For example, organophosphate pesticides may
produce symptoms of pesticide poisoning affecting several different
organs, and may progress rapidly from very mild to severe.
Symptoms may progress in a matter of minutes from
slight difficulty with vision to paralysis of the diaphragm muscle,
causing inability to breathe.
Therefore, if someone develops symptoms after
working with pesticides, seek medical help
promptly to determine if the symptoms are pesticide-related. In certain
cases, blood or urine can be collected for analysis, or other specific
exposure tests can be made. It is better to be
too cautious than too late.
It is always important to avoid problems by
minimizing your exposure when mixing and
applying pesticides by wearing gloves and other protective clothing.
The appropriate first aid treatment depends upon
which pesticide was used. Here are some tips
for first aid that may precede, but should not
substitute for, medical treatment:
* Poison on skin. Drench skin with water and
remove contaminated clothing. Wash skin and
hair thoroughly with soap and water. Dry
victim and wrap in blanket. Later, discard
contaminated clothing or thoroughly wash it separately
from other laundry.
* Chemical burn on skin. Drench skin with water
and remove contaminated clothing. Cover burned area immediately with
loose, clean, soft cloth. Do not apply ointments,
greases, powders, or other drugs. Later,
discard or thoroughly wash contaminated
clothing separately from other laundry.
* Poison in eye. Eye membranes absorb pesticides
faster than any other external part of the
body; eye damage can occur in a few minutes
with some types of pesticides. Hold eyelid
open and wash eye quickly and gently with clean running
water from the tap or a hose for 15 minutes or more. Do not use eye
drops or chemicals or drugs in the wash water.
* Inhaled poison. Carry or drag victim to fresh
air immediately. (If proper protection is
unavailable to you, call for emergency equipment from the Fire
Department.) Loosen victim's tight clothing. If the victim's skin is
blue or the victim has stopped breathing, give artificial respiration
and call rescue service for help. Open doors and windows so no one else
will be poisoned by fumes.
* Swallowed poison. A conscious victim should
rinse his mouth with plenty of water and then
drink up to one quart of milk or water to dilute the pesticide. Induce
vomiting only if instructions to do so are on
the label. If there is no label available to
guide you, do not induce vomiting. Never induce vomiting if the victim
is unconscious or is having convulsions.
In dealing with any poisoning, act fast; speed is
crucial.
First Aid for Pesticide Poisoning
First aid is the first step in treating a
pesticide poisoning. Study the "Statement of Treatment" on the
product label before you use a pesticide. When you realize a pesticide
poisoning is occurring, be sure the victim is not being further exposed
to the poison before calling for emergency help. An unconscious victim
will have to be dragged into fresh air. Caution:
do not become poisoned yourself while trying to help. You may have to
put on breathing equipment or protective clothing to avoid becoming the
second victim.
After giving initial first aid, get medical help
immediately. This advice cannot be repeated too often. Bring the
product container with its label to the doctor's office or emergency
room where the victim will be treated; keep the container out of the
passenger space of your vehicle. The doctor needs to know what chemical
is in the pesticide before prescribing treatment (information that is
also on the label).
Sometimes the label even includes a telephone
number to call for additional treatment information.
A good resource in a pesticide emergency is NPTN,
the National Pesticide Telecommunications
Network, a toll-free telephone service. Operators are on call 24 hours a
day, 365 days a year, to provide information
on pesticides and on recognizing and
responding to pesticide poisonings. If necessary
they can transfer inquiries directly to affiliated poison
control centers.
National Pesticide Telecommunications Network
Call Toll-Free 1-800-858-7378
NPTN operators answer questions about animal as
well as human poisonings. To keep your pets
from being poisoned, follow label directions
on flea and tick products carefully, and keep pets
off lawns that have been newly treated with weed killers and
insecticides. |
